Havana’s Heartbeat: A Guide to Cigar Factories and Official Shops
For any cigar aficionado, Havana is more than a city; it’s the definitive source, a hallowed ground where the soil, skill, and soul of tobacco converge. To truly understand the story of a Habano, one must walk the halls where they are born and visit the sanctuaries where they are kept. This is your essential, fact-checked guide to the operational cigar factories and official shops that form the heart of Havana's cigar culture.
A Note on Visiting: The landscape of what's open to the public in Havana can be fluid. Always confirm tour availability and times with an official tourist desk (found in major hotels) or through a reputable tour operator upon arrival.
The Living Factories: Where Legends Are Made
A visit to a working cigar factory is a journey back in time. The sweet, heavy aroma of cured tobacco fills the air as you watch the deft hands of the torcedores (master rollers) transform piles of precious leaves into world-famous cigars.
Real Fábrica de Tabacos Partagás
While the iconic yellow building behind the Capitolio is now closed for production and under renovation, the Partagás operation continues in a different location. The tour takes you through the entire fascinating process:
- The Sorting (La Escogida): Witness the highly skilled sorters, mostly women, who classify the delicate wrapper leaves by color and texture.
- The Rolling Gallery (La Galera): This is the main event. Rows of torcedores sit at their traditional wooden desks, meticulously bunching, binding, and rolling cigars. The famous lector (reader) is often present, reading news or literature aloud to the workers—a tradition that has endured for over a century.
- Quality Control: See how cigars are checked for weight, length, draw, and overall consistency before being sent for aging and boxing.
La Corona Factory
Another of Havana’s grand, historic factories, La Corona is a powerhouse of production. It is the parent factory for renowned brands like Hoyo de Monterrey, Punch, San Cristóbal, and many more. A tour here offers a look at a large-scale, highly efficient operation, from the moistening rooms where leaves are rehydrated to the bustling rolling gallery and the rigorous quality control stations.
Romeo y Julieta Factory
This factory is steeped in the legacy of one of the world's most romanticized cigar brands. It currently houses the production for several marques, and a tour here provides the same essential experience of witnessing the cigar-making process from leaf to finished product, imbued with its own unique history and atmosphere.
How to Book Factory Tours: Do not buy tickets from street vendors. Official tickets should be purchased from state-run tourism desks (like Infotur or Havanatur) located in the lobbies of major hotels. A tour typically costs around €15-€20 and is an essential Havana experience.
The Official Sanctuaries: La Casa del Habano
To ensure you are buying authentic Habanos, you must shop at an official, state-sanctioned store. The pinnacle of these is La Casa del Habano (LCDH), a global franchise of premium cigar shops operated under license from Habanos S.A. Havana is home to the best of them.
What Makes an LCDH Special?
- Guaranteed Authenticity: Every box comes with the proper seals and is guaranteed to be genuine.
- Unrivaled Selection: They stock the widest array of brands and sizes, including rare and limited LCDH-exclusive releases.
- Perfect Conditions: Cigars are stored in large, walk-in humidors with perfect temperature and humidity control.
- The Experience: Most LCDHs feature comfortable smoking lounges, well-stocked bars with premium Cuban rum and coffee, and private lockers for rent, making them social hubs for aficionados.
Must-Visit LCDH Locations in Havana:
- LCDH at the Hotel Nacional de Cuba: Steeped in old-world glamour, this shop in the historic Hotel Nacional is a classic. It boasts a beautiful walk-in humidor and a terrace with stunning views of the Malecón, making it a perfect spot to enjoy a cigar.
- LCDH at the Meliá Cohiba & Meliá Habana Hotels: These modern, well-stocked shops are known for their excellent service and deep inventory. The lounge at the Meliá Habana is particularly spacious and comfortable, making it a favorite among visiting connoisseurs.
- LCDH at Club Habana (5ta y 16): Located in the upscale Miramar district, this is arguably one of the most famous and well-regarded cigar shops in the world. Known for its vast selection, knowledgeable staff (including the famous Carlos Robaina), and luxurious smoking rooms, it is a primary destination for serious collectors seeking vintage and rare finds.
- LCDH at the "New" Partagás Factory: Adjacent to the working Partagás factory, this shop carries the torch from the original, legendary store. It’s an excellent place to buy the very cigars you may have just seen being rolled.
Final Tips for the Aficionado in Havana
- Avoid Street Sellers: Never buy cigars from street vendors or in unofficial locations. They are almost certainly counterfeits, no matter how convincing the box or the story.
- Check the Seals: Familiarize yourself with the current Cuban warranty seal. It is a green, rectangular seal with a hologram, a barcode, and a unique serial number that can be verified on the official Habanos S.A. website.
- Respect the Craft: When touring a factory, remember that it is a working environment. Be respectful of the torcedores, and always ask for permission before taking close-up photographs of individuals. Tipping the tour guide is customary and appreciated.
Customs & Export Regulations (Crucial Information)
This is the most important practical detail a visitor needs. Add a dedicated section explaining the rules for taking cigars out of Cuba. Taking Your Treasures Home: Export Rules Buying Habanos is one thing; legally taking them home is another. Cuban customs have strict rules:
Up to 50 Cigars in boxes:
You can export up to 50 cigars in boxes as long as they are in their oiginal, sealed boxes, complete with all official seals. You do not need a recipt for this amount. For more than that you need to have a factura from the cigar shop.
Important Note for U.S. Travelers:
As of the latest regulations, U.S. citizens are prohibited from bringing Cuban cigars back into the United States for personal use.2. The "Other" Official Shops: Habanos SpecialistsLa Casa del Habano is the top tier, but there's another official designation worth knowing. Beyond LCDH: Habanos Specialists and Other Shops While LCDH is the pinnacle, you will also see shops designated as "Habanos Specialist." These are also official retailers with guaranteed authentic products. They may have a slightly smaller selection and fewer lounge amenities than a full LCDH, but they are excellent, trustworthy places to shop. Many hotels also have smaller state-run Tiendas de Tabaco
(Tobacco Shops) that are perfectly legitimate for buying common production cigars.3. A Word on "Custom-Rolled" and "Farm Roll" CigarsVisitors will inevitably be offered these, and it's important to clarify what they are.The Allure of Custom & Farm RollsYou will encounter two other types of cigars:
These are cigars rolled fresh inside official LCDH shops by highly skilled torcedores. They use official, high-quality tobacco supplied by the state. Buying these is a fantastic experience, offering a chance to smoke a cigar made by a recognized master roller. These are legal to purchase and export (they count towards your personal limit).
Farm Rolls & Street Cigars:
"Farm rolls" are cigars supposedly bought directly from a farmer in a tobacco region like Viñales. Cigars sold on the street are often called "cooperativa" cigars.
Extreme caution is advised.
While some farm rolls can be a delightful rustic experience, the vast majority of these cigars—and virtually all cigars sold on the street—are counterfeit. They are often made with poor quality leaf, banana leaves, or other floor sweepings and can be un-smokable. Unless you have a trusted, long-standing relationship with a specific farmer, it is best to avoid them.
4. Practicalities of Payment & StockManaging expectations about money and availability is key to a good experience.Payment and Availability
While some high-end hotels and shops may accept credit cards, the system can be unreliable. Cash is king in Cuba. The Euro is the most widely preferred foreign currency for exchange and direct payment in these types of shops. Do not expect to use U.S. credit or debit cards.
Manage Expectations on Stock:
Do not arrive in Havana expecting every shop to have boxes of Cohiba Behikes or Trinidad Fundadores. Supply chain issues are common. Part of the adventure is the "hunt"—visiting different shops to see what treasures they have in stock on any given day. If you see a box you truly want, buy it, as it may not be there tomorrow.
5. Lounge Etiquette and The Social SceneA brief guide on how to act in the lounges adds a layer of sophistication.Lounge Etiquette: Savoring the Social SceneThe smoking lounges in Havana's LCDHs are social hubs. To fit right in:
It is considered poor form to sit in a lounge and smoke a cigar you brought from outside. The unspoken rule is to purchase a cigar from their humidor to enjoy in their lounge.
The shop managers and staff are incredibly knowledgeable. Ask for recommendations. They are the gatekeepers of the stock and can often find you something special.
Be mindful of where you blow your smoke and don't ash on the floor. These lounges are often intimate spaces shared by a global community of aficionados.
You can export up to 20 individual cigars without any official documentation or receipts.
By visiting these temples of tobacco, you not only purchase a product but also gain a profound appreciation for the culture, tradition, and human skill that make the Habano a true work of art.